I discovered there's much more to Largs than just the big commercial Yacht Haven.
The site of the Battle of Largs is commemorated nearby with an impressive stone tower facing the Firth.
In 1273 it was here that the Scots finally kicked out the Vikings. This was not totally successful as the well-frequented 'Viking Chippie' opposite the Cumbrae ferry terminal testifies.
However, I passed by the horned helmeted ones to seek out my now favourite place in town, that of Nardini's Italian Cafe on the front. It is magnificent both as an exercise in Art Deco flamboyance and as an emporium of the best italian sandwiches and ice creams this side of Florence. It would not be out of place in St Kilda, Melbourne, or on Coney Island. Eating their hot meatball sandwich with mozzarella, followed by raspberry tart with ice cream and a cappuccino, overlooking the sea, was my perfect conclusion to a week of heavy weather sailing.
I was interested in, and looked up, some facts about the Italian community in Scotland, now numbering 300,000. These are apparently the descendants of poor italian families, who, en route to a new life in the USA in the 1890s, stalled in Glasgow and settled in the area. They turned to fish and chips and ice cream making in this perhaps rather unlikely corner, and built up large and competing family catering empires. So apart from Nardini in Largs, there is Zavaroni in Rothesay and Macari in Campbeltown. Rocco Forte made it big nationwide. Some of their descendents have found fame in the arts, from Eduardo Paolozzi to Lena Zavaroni, and actors Daniella Nardini, Tom Conti and Peter Capaldi. I was wondering if Marconi, the TV inventor, was another one. These were my thoughts as I headed back to my floating home.
